Tip of the week
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Posted by Jim E (24.116.99.140) on March 18, 2004 at 14:55:37:
Leader to flyline connections
There are several different ways to attach a leader to a flyline, ranging from just tying it on, to using plastic attachment thingies. Throughout the times I’ve used or have tried most all of them and have settled on just a few that really work for me. As for most subjects, there are different opinions and as always, the below is just mine.
I took a picture of the three types that I use the most. I’m sorry that the supposed “macro” setting on my digital camera isn’t that great, so the photo isn’t as clear as I would like for it to be, for as close as it needs to be. Blah, blah, blah, now on with the connections.
The first one, “A” is the one I now use the most and is one of my own design and making. I use a length of either 20# or 30# mono, depending on the flyline weight, and form a loop. I attach it to the flyline with dacron flyline backing via a nail-knot having the flyline sandwiched in between the two ends of the mono loop. Leaving a fairly long tag end from that nail-knot, I form another nail-knot about 3/8” up, this time also pinching the tag end of the first nail-knot. Trim all of the tag ends and then coat knots with zap-a-gap, pliobond or super glue. I have yet to have one fail, even during the rigors of bass fly rodding with an 8 weight. Backing really cinches down tight and it soaks up the glue all making for an impressive connection. Attach the leader with a handshake knot via loop-to-loop. I use the perfection loop on my leaders that don’t already have a loop tied on them.
The next one, “B” is the commercially available braided “Chinese finger cuff” type connector. This one is either loved or hated. For several years in the past I used them and have only had one fail. But many complain of their failing often and also the possibility of it “hinging” and not continuing good flyline to leader turnover energy. You decide, but be sure to apply some zap-a-gap or superglue right under where the instructions tell you to place the shrink tubing !!! Again, these use the loop-to-loop handshake knot to attach the leader.
Next is “C”. This connection is the latest one that I have tried. I am only using it on my 1 wt. line right now as trial and so far so good, but I’m still leery. It offers the best transfer of energy to the leader and also, very important with long leaders, it doesn’t hang up on the line guides when it is pulled into them to land a fish or whatever else leads to your having to do so. Attaching a leader with this connection is not a streamside endeavor. It requires punching a guide hole into the end of the flyline and exiting out through the side about a half of an inch with a needle. Then you must use a knotless tapered leader and thread it through the exit hole, stopping at the last inch or so of the butt section. Roughen the butt section a little with sandpaper, apply some zap-a-gap, super glue or epoxy (what I used) to the roughened area and then pull the rest of the butt section into the core of the flyline. It will take me awhile to trust this method on heavier line weights but have heard of many that fully trust it. It’s only downfall is the ability to quickly change leaders although, if faced with this dilemma, you could cut off that leader leaving enough to tie a perfection loop in and proceed with attaching a new/different. Of course this will inhibit the nice transition from flyline to leader with loop knots. Click herefor a link that explains this method better. Also there is a new tool that just came out called the Shimazaki leader tool kit to aid in this method. I don't have one, yet.
Other common ways of leader attachment are; nail knotting on a short length of ?amnesia? with a loop in the end, metal ring eyes called "no knot eyelet"(not recommended), plastic “casting connectors” (also not recommended), simply nail-knotting the leader directly onto the flyline, factory welded loops and possibly others types and means. Help me out !!!
The A&B methods that I use, make changing leaders easy and also work well when I use the contraption that I made to quickly clean the flyline. They generally go through the rod line guides fairly well, are durable and don’t tend to cause the end of the floating flyline to sink.
What type do you use ? Why ?
Maybe this will give you some ideas to try or maybe you can offer some others yourself.
Thanks for reading and comments are welcomed.
Jim Enns <*;)))))))))><
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